Is ended last week the Paris Haute Couture F/W 2012 - 13, during which has been honored the opening of Maison Elsa Schiapparelli in the original location of 21, Place Vendome, next to Ritz Hotel. A very suggestive place where Farida Khelfa guided her guests in a "tour" telling and showing them changes and developments that we'll see in the Maison. Among several collections presented, these are, in my opinion, the best.
|Farida Khelfa, Pierre Passebon, Jacques Grange and Ines de la Fressagne|
In this collection we can see a "new vintage", the personal tribute of karl Lagerfeld to Haute Couture dedicated to all women who love elegance and the timeless charme of the Maison Chanel. A palett of dark colors like black and grey alternating to other ones like pink and apricot dominate the classic tweed tailleurs, the dresses, the coats, etc... A particular attention to details: embroidery and appliqué are matched with diamond, tulle and sequined inserts.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
A tribute to the androgynous and masculine style of the franch writer George Sand that Jean Paul Gaultier put on scene proposing a men's clothing translate into hourglass silhouettes, a minimized version of tuba, , amazing smokings and elegant jumpsuits matched with bolero jackets and dresses with 20's femme fatale cut. An elegant, chic and innovative collection that reflects perfectly the personality of the enfant terrible of fashion world.
In this collection the designer put together the sportwear references with the classic elements of Haute Couture. The leather jackets are lined with lynx fur, the swimsuits are printed of gold and the jumpsuits are enriched by draped silk. . For daywear there are blazer with operated hems matched with mini skirts; for nightwear, insted, there are embroidery and lurex details. The final effect is a timeless elegance and an amzing winter touch.
A riot of flowers in the amazing rooms of Gublenkian Foundation of Paris was the stting of the fashion show signed by Raf Simons for Christian Dior. A minimal spirit is the lietmotiv of the collection: bar jackets, coats and hourglass dresses; bustier mini dress for night enriched by flower embroidery etc. A palett of colors played with light and dark shades for a sober, elegant and refined collection, in perfect Dior style.
An unexpected show proposed by the brand that pays tribute to blue in approaching with renaissance references, prints inspired by tapestry and in contrast with the classic and passional red. A sober and refined elegance is the lietmotiv combined with trasparences and light and soft fabrics like chiffon, silk and organza.