Is just the ended Milan Fashion Week F/W 2014-15 that, as every year, brings together the best of italian and international fashion. I am very excited about this fashion week, I liked almost all of collection presented. Each of them impressed me in a very particular way more than past years. Here a selection of my favourite collections.
The collection is a tribute to Nature, ethereal and elegant, shifted in an imaginary world almost dreamy. Wonderful wood creatures alternate each other on catwalk wraped in dresses made with the earth tones: from dark green to brown with touches of yellowe and red. Embroidery remind of trees branches, laces remind of ivy and prints of brids hovering in flight.
Many artistic movements inspired this f/w collection by Angelo Marani: from french impressionism to italian Art Nouveau to Art Deco. Different currents mixed together in a palette of chromatic choises, lines and details. The clean and essential lines are livened by zips and inserts; as final touch, the paintings of Jackson Pollock and his abstract flowers spread on knightwear, skirts and dresses. Protagonistof the collection is the Twenty Century Fur: a mink with 220 inlays.
Forget the good girl allure that has always characterized the brand. In this collection Anna Molinari turns to sexy, strong, party-girl mood. Protagonist of daywear is leather in total look version, shap pants, blouses and mini dresses. Nightwear is illuminated by gold glows: gold inserts and dresses similar to an armor are the main elements.
Fast Food Generation: this should be the name of the collection signed by Moschino for f/w 2014. Borrowing the logo of a famous american fast food chain,the brand brought on catwalk a meltin' pot of metropolitan and underground cultures, a style that is at the same time gangsta, rap, hip hop (a little bit tawrdy) but also chic, funny and glamorous. That's how that take away food boxes alternate snacks and candies packs for a very original and funny result that struck.
Who thinks that fashion can't be funny doesn't have seen the collection presented by Kristina T at MFW. Fresch, colorful, ladylike and a bit mischievous with a metropolitan and cosmopolitan taste. Floral prints, flared shapes, fur inserts and fabric puffs give to the collection a lively and trés chic mood.
CHICCA LUALDI BEEQUEEN
Focal points of this collection, inspired by 60's, are male fabrics feminized by ton sur ton fur inserts, panels printed with geometric drawings, apstel shades and metal reflections. Accessories also take part to this creative patchwork mixing leather with knightwear and fur.
The woman though by the designer for the next f/w season is elegant and sophistiacted, traditional and cosmopolitan at the same time, confident but a little shy. Very interesting the naturalistic patchwork prints that spread on dresses and skirts and played on the shades of gray and black with touches of white, brown and blue.
Is inspired by the decorative arts of Native Americans tribes the collection signed by Peter Dundas for Emilio Pucci. A collection with a savage taste characterized by leather emroidery, stud and fur inspired by 70's. Geometric and tribal themes dominate the collection on daywear and nightwear. Rich of natural colors mixed with ethnical motifs this collection is full of glamour and sensuality.
This collection is a tribute to a passed elegance, lost in time, that doesn't loose its charm. Played mainly on the shades of gold and powder pink with some hints of green, blue and khaki, the timeless glamour is modernized by embroidery, gold studs, a waise use of fur and an andorginy that gives the final touch to nightwear.
Pop soul and a lot of color. As in a comic novel, the face of the statue of liberty appears on sweatshirts and t-shirts in a kaleidoscope of irregular colorful geometries that remind of the artworks of Sonia Delaunay and Kazimir Malevich. Silhouettes inspied by 60's shapes alternate other ones more traditional and carved and other more soft and winking.
Black and white, transparency and opacity, sensuality and innocence. Is focused on contrast this collection by Frankie Morello who plays with the graphic comics of Julie Verhoeven, with naif prints and daring combinations. Fabrics like silk, organza and leather overlap with each other while tapestry effect geometriesand male shoes emphasize the femininity.
Pleats, ruffles and fold arered threads of this collection, focused on cocktail dresses and evening gowns. This
tailoring virtuosity plays with black and white contrast and focuses the attention on different parts of the silhouette, made of preicous materials, digital prints and chaning drawings.
A lot of tradition and a 60's inspiration for this collection designed by Frida Giannini. The collection might look simple but it contains in it all the dna of the brand, is made on light and delicate pastel tones. Lines are clean, romantic and ladylike. The collection looks squared and geometric with a timeless mood that is modernized by crystal inserts, leather details and accessories.
Metropolitan atmosphere for Roberto Cavalli. The collection mixes different genres and styles, bringing on catwalk a cultural meltin' pot typical of nig cities. Spotted prints are mixed with other graffiti stains on sweaters and furs. The transparency ismixed with heavy fabrics like tweed and mohair, while the palette of colors is played on black and gold, softened by studded clutches and fringe bags that become eye-catching elements.
For the next f/w season the brand proposed sinuous and very feminine cuts and fluid shapes. The protagonist among material effects is pleated in all its variations. The panther, mascot of the brand, shows off its profile in the mesh, mixed with roses and floral prints.
The muse of this collection of Luisa Beccaria is a dreamer girl, elegant and sophisticated. As many tableaux vivants the models showed off the embroidery, the decorations, the fabrics and the tailoring of the dresses. The concept of this collection is the research of a fluid, romantic and princely elegance.
Sensuality rules. This is the key to read one of the best collection of Versace brand that reworks the aesthetic canons that are in the dna of the maison. This collection celebrates the strenght of women: the mini dresses emphasize the silhouette thanks to the bias cuts revised in a more modern way. To balance this explosion of sensuality and femininity the essential suits stolen by male wardrobe and the coats inspired by military uniforms of seventeenth century for feminine but strong and confident women.