To the strains of Benny Goodman, I take a look at the collections s/s by Gucci, Marchesa, Vionnet, Etro, Ralph Lauren etc.: on catwalk craze of the 20’s retro style,
made of lace, fringe, embroidery and applications of precious. It’s
almost like stepping back in time … I let myself be carried away by
imagination and, immediately, I guess to be sitting at the Roseland Ballroom with Louis Armstrong’s
music in the background. In front of me, the legendary flapper girls go
wild at the rhytm of Charleston: the fringes of their dresses, the
feathers of their hats and their long pearl necklaces move frenetically
to the beat of music. A unique, timeless and always fascinating show.
Bérénice Bejo in "The Artist" |
The ’20s back roaring more than ever, driven by cult-movies as “The Artist”
by M. Hazanavicius, silent movie acclaimed by critics and nominated for
10 Oscar awards, which has the box office worldwide, or as “Midnight in Paris” by the great Woody Allen, that gives the viewer a glimpse of Paris in the ’20s, or even as “The Great Gatsby”
(remake of the lucky movie of 1973 directed by Jack Clayton) with
Leonardo Di Caprio and Carey Mulligan, that anticipated the trend of
20’s.
Carey Mulligan in "The great Gatsby" |
Cinema is confirmed once again as one of
the most powerful vehicles through which the designers draw their
inspiration, reviving style, atmosphere and emotions of the most vibrant
years of the twentieth century.
I analyze in detail the collections mentioned above, focusing my attention on their common elements.
• Fringe:
perfect accessories, they are wonderful ornaments that seem to give life to the dresses by creating movement.
Marchesa S/S 2012 |
• Accessories:
satin mini clutch or
covered in sequins, hair bands decorated with feathers, sandals with a T
list, long pearls necklaces and the ever-present cigarettes. They’re
the must have for a real flapper girl look!
• Gold:
That they are fringe,
appliqué, makeup or accessories, the key word is gold: it focuses the
attention and gives a shine effect, chic and charming.
Gucci S/S 2012 |
• Back:
center point of these
collections is the back, ever more naked and sexy. Beautiful clothes,
through games of plots (An example is the beautiful dress by Hervé Léger), creates a tatoo effect in contact with the skin bright and well kept.
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