22/02/12

London Fashion Week 2012


It’s ended yesterday the London Fashion Week. As for New York, even London saw a mix of different styles, each fascinating in its own way. Making an overview of the collections presented, these are the collections that I liked the most.


MOSCHINO CHEAP and CHIC
 This season, A/W 2012, the London brand offers us the collection “Makeup Your Life”, characterized by extravagant but nice combinations and girly interpretation. The classics clothes of “good girls” are completely altered, following  the motto “take life less seriously.” Sweety themes  and pastel colors play on skirts, dresses and coats, for a woman who loves to be fashionable without ever taking herself  too seriously.

PAUL SMITH
 A celebration of what distinguishes the designer and the brand: an androgynous style, a bit oversized. For a woman who is sexy and feminine even when she wears man clothes.

JONATHAN SAUNDERS
 The collection A/I 2012 can be divided in two parts: day and night. If in daytime the woman is rigorous and serious on forms, themes and colors, at night she shines and became romantic and a little saucy, focusing on bright colors and forms that emphasize the waist.

MARIOS SCHWAB
 For this A/W Marios Schwab propose a retro and sensual woman who loves to show herself but who also is  reserved and mysterious. Soft dress caress the body, and delicate lace inserts meet soft skirts and fabrics as fur and wool.

HOUSE OF HOLLAND
 60′s style, geometric forms and color blocking are mixed perfectly in this fresh and funny, with a disco atmosphere.

FELDER FELDER
 Minerals, 90′s grunge styleare the ispirational themes of the collection. Aggressive and sexy outfits, with a touch of 70′s chic, that are embellished, at night, with swarovsky insert, gold pearls wires or fringe.

WILLOW
 They start from the butterfly’s wings flapping to create games of  inedited fabrics and forms: a modern and soft style. Cocoon forms, symmetries and asymmetries, are the hallmarks of the collection.

TODD LYNN
 A collection that propose classic clothes reinterpreted in a personal way from the designer. Unstructured jackets, uneven lengths and leather insert are mixed thanks to soft forms that caress the body.

SIMONE ROCHA
 A collection played on the contrast among street-style and romantic allure, among differents fabrics as tweed, tulle and PVC decorated with wool insert. A dreamy atmosphere and a style that mixes feminine and masculine for a woman who is romantic in a new way.


TEMPERLY LONDON
 A true “Reinessance” for this collection A/W, embellished by games of textures, gold floral details, lamé embroidery. A luxurious collection, with cocktail dress embellished by swarovsky inserts.


EMILIA WICKSTEAD
 The bon ton collection with a soft retrò touch, is elegant, simple, wearable for day and night. The 50′s forms and the themes emphasizes the femininity and give a touch of  timeless graceful.

DAKS
 British brand is loyal to its origins. Plaid theme is proposed in all its classy, but in new interpretations too. It celebrates the type of woman of the brand, that winks to more young and fresh cliente.

BORA AKSU
 A collection inspired by fantastic worlds with a actually fairy atmosphere. The creations brought on catwalk are rich of decorative elements, made by heavy fabrics that create on dresses a upholstery effect that embellish the same creations.

MARY KATRANTZOU
 An other wonderful collection by Mary Katrantzou. An incredible work of digital  prints (for the realization the designer has collaborated with Maison Lesage) inspired by everyday objects, that are the hallmarks of the collection with three-dimensional forms, corsets andflared skirts.

DAVID KOMA
 Inspirational themes of the collection are: the marchesa Casati, the elegance of 20′s, the minimalism of 60′s and the works of Louis Icart e Thierry Poncelet. A graphic and strong style, that plays with contrasts and emphasizes the femininity.

MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF
 This collection is inspired by clochards and clowns. Playing with the contrast of colors, forms and fabrics, they give life to a fresh and colorful collection, with a lively soul… almost a carnival.

ERDEM
 The collection can be interpreted as the growth of the Erdem girl, who is detached from the Lolita look of spring collection and has become a woman. The combinations proposed, show a more mature and sensual style: forms that emphasize the waist, laminated fabric dresses with lace inserts, bright colors and dark tones are the main features of the collection, strong and feminine at the same time.

GILES
 The designer starts from a quite specific  image: a mansion where a fire has just broken out. The patterns show images of burning tapestries, and branches of the garden that seem to rend the clothes, but they are damped by soft blouses, bulky jackets and shiny inserts. Almost magically, appear unicorns and creatures that seem to have broken up the wall and lying on the clothes. A tragic event can be turned into a collection of fairy tale with  macabre traits, which offers a charming and dreamy atmosphere.

ANTONIO BERARDI
 A collection of sculptural reinterpreted in a modern way. The suits have sculpted forms, inserts and cuts that enhance femininity. Almost a return to Baroque sculptures, which gives clothing an allure of refined elegance.

BURBERRY PRORSUM
 A true success for Christopher Bailey who in this collection has been able to interpret more classic clothes of Burberry’s closet in a young, fresh and cheeky way, combining masterfully tradition and progress.








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