Is ended last October 2 the Paris Fashion Week s/s 2014 that, after New York, London and Milan closes the loop of the four most important fashion weeks of the year. In the setting of one of the most important capitals of fashion took turns some of the biggest names of fashion scene.
In the catwalks of the Ville Lumiere there were confirms, surprises and no real disappointment, even if someone betrayed the expectation, just a little bit. Summing up, it's clear that fashion industry is alive and more strong than ever and it's still able to surprise and excite, thanks to its ability in reinvent and reinterpret itself. And now, a short reviw of my favourite collections.
ANN DEMULEMEESTER
A mix of different inspirations that presents all the themes dear to the designer. From eighteenth-century dadnyism to bohemien style, enriched by gothic touches and rock elements softened by floral references to Art Nouveau that dampen the male/female contrast.
ANTHONY VACCARELLO
A collection of clean traits, inspired by militar style but that, at the same time, oozes sensuality, empahized by cut-outs, that show off the hips, but also by the use of leather and lace.
BALENCIAGA
The second challenge of Alexander Wang as creative director of Balenciaga. In this collection the deisgner reinvents the concept of sportwear turning it into an elegant game of volumes: the biker jacket, for example, becomes a tribute to the volumetric boldness of Cristobal. Particular and interesting are the details made with anew high-tech lace that is presented as a plot of petals glued together. A very fresh, clean, almost sculptural collection.
COLLETTE DINNIGAN
One of my favourite collections: romantic, elegant, ladylike and soft as a cloud, but also colorful and delicate. In a game of elegant transparences, soft and flared shapes and delicate emroidery, come to life pretty puffs of chiffon and floral decorations that enrich and harmonize the colthes.
ELIE SAAB
A fairy garden made of laces and precious transparences: the s/s collection signed by Elie Saab is inspired by nature and the most delicate shades of flowers. Soft texture, impalpable like petals, give life to hetereal and ladylike silhouettes enriched by crystal inserts, embroidery and appliques. A bouquet that goes from pure white to black, creating a colorful theme of an exotic charm.
GIANBATTISTA VALLI
Archived the pomposity of the past seasons, this time the collection presented is delicate, romantic and ladylike, inspired by many sources, that it turns in a living garden, animated by botanic jewels and dressed that, like ivies, cling softly to the models's body.
ISABEL MARANT
A collection that looks like the perfect fusion among bohemien spirit and rock seductions. White lace and delicate transparences, skirts with cliffs and ruffles, blouses with puffes sleeves and soft chiffon dresses with romantic floral prints, live together with biker jacket, corset pants and leather shorts. Soft and delicate colors like powder pink are matched with black, for a more modern and strong touch, while precious crystals and silver sequins light up the night.
MIU MIU
60's revisted in a pop twist, altered and reinterpreted in a whole new way, are the keystone of this collection: colorful and fun, ladylike but not sickly. In an alternation of colors, prints and different textures walking the catwalsk the Belles du Jour of Miuccia Prada: pleated skirts, pastel furs with vinyl maxi pockets, color block dresses with franges made with colored beads, micro coats animated by naive embroidey and prom dresses. Everything matched with crochet stockings and bags that seem stolen form mum's wardrobe.
NINA RICCI
A collection soft like a breath, vaparous like a cloud, delicate like a candy. Diaphanous and sensual, it embodies an exquisitely mischievous femininitythat knows how to lead the game of seduction with elegance. The isnpiration is a eighteenth-century languid romanticism, revisited and made modern by elements inspired by male wardrobe.
ROCHAS
For this collection Zanini thought to four elements: crystal, ice, glass and water, he has fused them together and mixed in an dreamy vision that is evident on colors, fabrics and accessories. The idea is the one of the big fragility but, at the same time, of a big elegance. The collection is dedicated to a bourgeois woman, sometimes crazy, but definitely original and sophisticated.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Sexy but also naive is woman thought by Stella McCartney, who does of her grace her weapon of seduction. Opaque and transparent fabrics are mixed together showing off the body, fluid dresses nourish the mouvment while lace slipdress trace the shilouette and show an inch of skin.
VALENTINO
Is the most french of the italian brands to break the rules of this fashion week with a tribute collection to the italian tailoring and the elegance made in Italy, a journey among different ethnic groups, among different opera characters, among different ages and tells a ladylike vision that stay faithful to the aesthetics of the Maison, although it'sprojected to the future.
And you? What is your favourite collections?
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